Travels in Colombia Part 3 – Medellin

Medellin

The drive from Solento to Medellin was slow and long. The scenery through the mountain passes though was captivating. Even the bathrooms had magnificent views.

We were off to the next stop on our 22 day trip around Colombia with G Adventures

A toilet with a view, Medellin, Colombia — We arrived late in the afternoon. We were staying in a suburb of Medellin called El Poblado. The only thing you here about Medellin is its history of drugs and violence. Here was a place full of trendy bars, funky cafes and fabulous food, it was buzzing. The only difficulty was deciding where to eat and drink, there was so much choice. It had a really fun, party atmosphere.

Fabulous food and drink in Medellin, Colombia

The next morning we had a city tour of Medellin. Unfortunately, our guide was a little disinterested. I found Medellin very busy and crowded and a little tacky in places. I did however love Botero square.

Me by the Botero statue in Medellin, Colombia

Medellin, Colombia — If the morning was a little bit of a disappointment the afternoon surpassed all expectations. Medellin is divided into 16 Communes or Comunas. As the city is surrounded by mountains some of the poorest Comunas are on steep hillsides and very difficult to access. In 2006 as compensation for the past and after many years of neglect, the mayor pledged to invest a huge amount of money to improve conditions. In 2008 a cable car system was built to connect these communities to the city. This afternoon we caught the cable car. We were going to visit comuna 13.

Cable cars in Medellin — In 2011 the 1st electrical escalators for social purposes anywhere in the world were built in Comuna 13. Grafitti and street art became part of the landscape. The change was massive. Tourists started to visit Comuna 13 to ride the cable cars and escalators and admire the street art.

Escalators in comuna 13 Medellin, Colombia

Street art in Comuna 13, Medellin, Columbia — One of the famous grafitti artists is called Chota. We were really lucky as our guide today was going to be his brother Santi. It was fantastic to learn of some of the violent history from someone who lived through it. It was quite emotional.

Me and my tour buddies at comuna 13 Medellin, Colombia

Street art by Chota in comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia

I need to explain some of the history of Comuna 13, it used to be one of the most violent and infamous areas of Medellin. During the times of the troubles many of the population were displaced. In the late 1970s and early 80s many people escaping the conflict in rural areas settled in Comuna 13. In all, more than 1,500 settled here They had few skills apart from farming. Many had no jobs and lived in houses put together from wood, plastic and aluminium. It was easy for the drug smugglers to infiltrate and it also held a strategic position.

In the late 80s and early 90s guerilla groups moved in and wrestled for control with the paramilitaries. They enforced their own laws, decided who should live or die and who should have ‘ payback‘. The wars between the groups led to many murders everyday. For over a year it was the 2nd most dangerous area in the world.

Comuna 13 in Medellin, Colombia — Alvaro Uribe was elected in 2002 and vowed to take action. He instigated many military operations. The 2 most important were Operation Marissa and Operation Orion. Operation Marissa took place on 21st May 2002 and had a terrible outcome. 9 people were killed, all innocent civilians and 3 we’re children or young people many more were injured. After 2 of her sons were injured, a mother waved a bed sheet out of the window shouting ‘let me out, let me out, I need to take my children to the hospital.’ Others joined in and soon the whole community was covered in white flags. Thanks to that mother’s courage the operation did not last long.

In Oct 2002 Operation Orion was launched. It was the last and biggest military operation with 1,500 soldiers, 2 helicopters and a tank and lasted 3 days. Helicopters shot from the sky and killed innocent citizens even in their own houses. The official figures said that 3 civilians, 10 rebels, 2 soldiers and 1 policeman were killed. However the community believe these figures are totally false and that many more civilians were killed. Many believed that the Colombian police partnered with the paramilitaries to wipe out the guerrillas from Comuna 13. Masked and hooded men were seen pointing out houses to police which were thought to be hiding FARC or ELN rebels.

Operation Orion got rid of the guerrillas but the paramilitaries moved in to take control. There were more murders. They set about punishing those that had helped the guerrillas. Bodies were buried in rubbish dumps. The paramilitaries were eventually decommissioned. The money put into the community, the cable cars and escalators completely revitalised the community. Everyone was warm, welcoming and happy and very proud of their community, what they have come through and what they have achieved. The sense of optimism is palpable.

Houses of comuna 13 Medellin, Colombia — ***Everywhere is so full of colour, grafitti, art, street performances, dancing, colourful houses and flowers.***

The group posing at comuna 13 Medellin, Colombia

Graffiti for peace in comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia

Amazing street art at comuna 13 Medellin, Colombia

Street dancing, comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia — Some graffiti represents the events of the past, but so much of it is about peace and optimism. The views from Comuna 13 are fantastic. We were very lucky to also get to meet Chota, the famous grafitti artist. We had some fantastic food home-cooked by Santi s mother and grandmother.

view over Comuna 13 Medellin, Colombia — dav

Street dancers at comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia — dav

Me with Chota at comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia

Me having a beer at comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia

Cooking our dinner at comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia

The visit to Comuna 13 was one of my highlights of my trip to Colombia. It epitomises the new Colombia full of pride, optimism and happiness.

Book a tour with a local to comuna 13

The day hadn’t finished. The other thing Medellin is famous for is their amazing Christmas lights displays. Luckily it’s almost Christmas so we get to see them. Each year is a different theme and this year was the perfect theme for me – the Rainforest and bio – diversity. The lights were spectacular.

Rainforest Christmas lights Medellin, Colombia — dig

Butterfly Christmas lights Medellin, Colombia — sdr

Hummingbird Christmas light Medellin, Colombia — dav

Medellin Christmas lights display Colombia

Anteater Christmas light Medellin, Colombia — What better way to end a perfect day than to dance the night away at a traditional Salsa club. The atmosphere was electric and some of the dancing left me open mouthed, it was breathtaking. As well as Salsa there was Cumbia and local dances. A couple were so in unison it looked like 1 person dancing. Great atmosphere, great night, great experience.

The next day was a fantastic trip to climb El Penon rock and visit the colourful city of Guatape. This is a great day trip from Medellin.

Book your trip to Colombia with G Adventures

Read my blogs on my wonderful trip to
El Penon and Guatape

Hiking to the Lost City

Cartagena

Me at a salsa club in Medellin, Colombia